Shanghai Surprise

In this posting, Helmut and I are ‘Shanghaied’ without the help of drugs, appear unannounced in wedding photos and send up acrophobes at the Orient Pearl Tower

Dear Readers, it should come as no surprise to those who have experienced the deliciousness of living or visiting Shanghai, that the city is too vast, too complex, and too inscrutable to be described or reviewed concisely in a travel guidebook or magazine article. Indeed, at this very moment, with more than a few bottles of wine and ‘mother’s ruin’ drained to the dregs and littering our Astor House Hotel room floor, it seems clear that this megalopolis deserves to be honored with an entire library section! Unfortunately, a discerning imbiber like myself, or ‘lush’ as Helmut often prefers to call me, can only manage a limited piece of text, so a blog entry or two will have to suffice…

Now, dear readers, which city in the world – apart from this one – can lay claim to its very own glamorous and rather wicked English language expression? To ‘Shanghai someone’ is said to have been first used in this context in the mid nineteenth century and means to drug a man unconscious, without his knowing, and ship him unwillingly as a sailor. Isn’t it MARVELOUS how a simple two-syllable word like Shanghai can boast such an intricate and exciting meaning? Yes, the expression originated from the illegal kidnapping to fill the crews of ships making extended voyages, such as to the Chinese seaport of Shanghai. 

Hubby Helmut is quite taken with this expression and harbours romantic ideas of being ‘Shanghaied’ himself. Sadly for Helmut, his travel experiences thus far, do not conform to the word’s strict definition, although he insists he HAS been called  ‘Sailor’ on a few rowdy occasions!

Parks

Parks in China provide a welcome refuge from the noise and bustle of city life, and those in Shanghai are no exception. Park visitors, particularly the elderly, can be found there performing martial arts such as Tai Chi and Qi Gong. Others go to dance, meditate, fly kites and play badminton or mahjong. A ‘must-see’ for us old crocs is Fuxing Park, an expanse of green, situated in the former colonial ‘French Concession’ area of Shanghai called Luwan. This delightful park is designed in the French style with a centre lake, fountains, covered pavilions and flowerbeds and provides the perfect place for a quiet tipple! In a romantic setting, underneath the spreading sycamore trees, Chinese couples of a certain age meet up to dance the afternoon away, surrounded by statues of Marx and Lenin.

Helmut and I become rather nostalgic watching the happy, waltzing couples

Oh how their dancing takes us back through the years, back to our fumbling courtship, or to what our local law enforcers preferred to call ‘disturbing the peace’…Dear readers, to this day, we keep a framed copy of our mug shots, next to the wet bar, to remind us of that wonderful, intoxicating time!

Wedding Photos

On the subject of sentiment, Shanghai’s Bund area, with its magnificent art deco buildings on one side of the Huangpu River, and futuristic vistas on the other bank, provides young couples, especially newlyweds, with the perfect backdrop for their romantic souvenir pictures.

It is not uncommon during the weekend to see an entire assortment of brides and grooms, clad in western-style wedding garb, posing in front of a camera.

Helmut ADORES being a show-off and always tries to worm his way into their shots. Just imagine dear readers, the delightful surprise of the happy pairs when they develop their wedding pictures, only to spot what appears to be an elderly, inebriated Westerner, waving two bony fingers and pulling his best ‘zombie face’ in the background! What an auspicious start to their married life!

The Orient Pearl Tower

Opposite the Bund and across the Huangpu River, is Shanghai’s gleaming and opulent landmark, the Oriental Pearl Tower. Built as a radio and TV tower, the Oriental Pearl was completed in 1994 and at 1,535 feet high, used to be the tallest structure in China until it was surpassed by the Shanghai World Financial Centre in 2007. Hubby Helmut and I are eager to see the Observation Deck on the 88th floor, and we wait in line with hundreds of tiresome tourists for our designated lift. When it arrives, complete with a uniformed ‘lift hostess’, we are subjected to a lecture in English, lasting for the ENTIRE duration of our upward journey!

On the way out, waggish Helmut tells her that if this is the Chinese version of the ‘Elevator Pitch’, he’ll take 1.4 billion of whatever she is selling. What a razor-sharp wit! 

At the summit, the lifts open out into a vast hall with floor to ceiling glass windows and a 360-degree panoramic view of the sprawling city below. Outside and encircling the Observation Deck is the ‘skywalk’ – a glass ledge full of visitors, apparently standing in mid-air

Helmut, who has an uncanny gift for sniffing out anyone with a phobia, in this case acrophobia or fear of heights, offers those who are clutching at the railings and exhibiting a green or white pallor, a swig from his hip-flask, while asking if they need a parachute with that! Strangely enough, we are the only ones amused at his little joke! What a dull lot!

This type of light-hearted banter seems to give Helmut an enormous appetite. Outside the Oriental Pearl, while jokingly asking a few Shanghai families if they could recommend a good restaurant apart from McDonald’s, Helmut reaffirms his natural ability to communicate with their children.

 

 

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Tokyo Topics

In this post Helmut and I take a Tokyo tour bus, explore the psyche of the Japanese married male and end up on a mini-fishing expedition..

Dear readers, occasionally I am quizzed as to why I don’t post on Hewdge more consistently. Well, the answer to that question is of course: Bombay Sapphire. Yes, it’s devilishly addictive and I DO hope you are keeping yours in the freezer. Remember: that glorious nectar of the gods can NEVER be too cold!! As far as advice goes, dear readers, this must surely be the most sensible, except perhaps, the tedious admonishment to wear sunscreen. Naturally, our freezers are FULL of Bombay Sapphire or, as Helmut gaily quips when referring to the brand, we are always full of BS! 

Tokyo Tour

One of our first outings in Tokyo is a bus tour around the city, culminating in a visit to the delightful Kyu Shiba Rikyu Gardens. Our loquacious tour guide, Yuki, is embarrassed when her mic fails, strangely enough, just as we are passing Tokyo’s Panasonic Centre

Luckily, Yuki is a professional and has a back-up plan – an informative flip chart, with diagrams depicting modern Japanese family life. Yes, dear readers, Helmut and I learn more about Japanese society on that bus tour than all our Pokemon card-swaps and Sake binges put together!

Japanese Family Life:

According to Yuki’s chart, while Japanese husbands are happy to come home for food, Japanese wives have to bear the sole responsibility for running the household and rearing the children

According to Yuki’s chart, men rarely spend time with their wives and children, and are constantly out drinking and socializing after work 

Another of Yuki’s diagrams shows women doing all the housework, while their husbands lounge lazily around the house, reading newspapers. Oh dear! Could Yuki be a teensy-weensy bit irate at the Japanese married male? 

As soon as our Cultural Awareness Bus Tour is over, we head for the nearest pubs and sushi bars to observe as many hungry, drinking, dallying, and domesticity-dodging husbands as we can find. Look! We spot a group already…

Interesting Japanese Dishes

An obvious food choice for the undomesticated Japanese male, is Shirako or Fish Sperm, a dish of tempting looking sacks containing seminal fluid. Helmut playfully suggests that most tourists would go “nuts” over this food…What a wag!

Shirouo no Odorigui

Shirouo no Odorigui, or ‘dancing’ ice fish, are very small transparent fish (shirouo), which are eaten alive and dance in one’s mouth before being swallowed. The dish is traditionally served with a quail egg and vinegar. First, the egg is cracked open, mixed with vinegar and then the shirouo are added to the egg/vinegar mix. The little fellows are then caught with chopsticks and brought to one’s mouth where they wriggle and squirm around, to the delight of the diner

After the meal, Helmut feels something burrowing under his dentures and nibbling away at his adhesive. Could it be the ice fish that got away? Yes! Only a rod made of a toothpick and dental floss can capture the mini-Moby in his mouth. That, and a rinse around with Bombay Sapphire Mouthwash, helps bring the fishing expedition to an end…

Banashi

Banashi is raw horsemeat, but it is Basashi Ice Cream, which boasts that same exquisite raw horsemeat flavour, that is clearly a winner in the dessert stakes. What better to follow ice fish than ice-cream!

After a mouth-watering day…

Later, we call in at a popular karaoke bar in Shibuya, where Helmut displays his unique talent for emptying a room

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St. Valentine’s Day Mess Occurs

Dear Readers,

Taking time off from our busy Tokyo tour to acknowledge the amatory significance of St Valentine’s Day, Helmut and I celebrate as usual, from our most favourite romantic location: propped up at the bar of a local pub. This hallowed spot is where we first met, dear readers, and so it goes without saying, that a pub cocktail will always have a special place in our hearts, and, as Helmut loves to joke, in other vital organs, too! Yes, it’s true that Helmut’s bladder fails to make a splash in the Tokyo bar’s heated toilets, but never mind, as it keeps the cheery janitor employed!

Helmut Fails To Make a Splash

Hubby Helmut and I have an exceptional love story. After all, how many couples can exactly recall the pub in which they first met? We cannot recall either, but according to the charge sheet, it was the Queen’s Head, Croydon. What a romantic setting, dear readers, and I sigh even now, to think of that magnificent sapphire Helmut presented me with, on our second date!

Yes, that bottle of Bombay Sapphire gin was my first of many, and in our twenty romantic years together, Helmut estimates that, as drunken sots, or ‘double shots’ as he playfully likes to call us, we have polished off more than ten thousand bottles, thereby proving the wisdom of the old adage: The Family in a Daze Together, Stays Together!

Happy Valentine’s Day!

A little poem to help you through the day…

Worst Side Story

Star-cross’d lovers

When first they met….

The tale, ‘Romeo and Juliet”

contains Love, Death, Betrayal…the lot…

(without which, of course,

there’d be no plot!!)

Alas our Juliet and Romeo

They loved too much – and had to go!

Had they survived, would married life

have brought our pair… .delight. ……or strife?

“Oh Romeo… Drudge!, Wherefore art thou??”

 ”I’m here, you rancorous, Capulet cow!”

“What light through yonder window breaks?”

“Revealing wrinkles, teeth – all fakes!”

“You shallow toad!!. I am your spouse!!”

“A plague I set upon your house.” 

“You heartless Cur, you….. you… Montague!!!

“I kissed a lot of frogs for you!”   

With that, she kicks him where it hurts

And rips up all his silken shirts

And Romeo of course hits back

And tells her that her ‘bum looks fat’

And thus the pair cause quite a din

until old Nursie hurries in

She comes with poison and with knives and forces them.….

to take their lives!!!

And so here ends our troubled tale

With love grown rancid, bitter, stale

The moral of the story’s this:

To live in deep romantic bliss

and win the title ‘Love’s Young Dream’

Don’t live past Shakespeare’s final scene!!

Helga Hewston

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